Underwire Mysteries

Underwires play a crucial role in the construction and functionality of underwired bras. They are designed to provide support and shape to the bust. However, the selection of the right underwires (or even ready-made bras) can be a complex process, as it involves many considerations.

Various factors contribute to why some bras fit well while others do not. For instance, these factors influencing the fit may be the model of the bra itself, the placement of the straps, the type of fabric used, or brand differences, as each brand has its own sizing standards and design philosophies.

Therefore, whether you're looking for the best-fitting underwires or ready-made bras, it can take some time to find such. We're all different, and underwear is rather an intimate matter, both in terms of sewing and wearing.

BREAST SHAPES

Understanding your specific breast shape can help you choose the most comfortable and supportive underwires for your bras, however, while most underwires are manufactured for specific breast shapes (round, wide oval, or narrow oval), they may still work for other shapes as well.

Round shaped breasts are characterized by a balanced and symmetrical appearance, where the breast volume is evenly distributed both at the top and bottom.
Wide oval shaped breasts are characterized by their broad base and rounded shape, resembling an horizontal oval.
Narrow oval shaped breasts are characterized by their elongated and slightly tapered appearance, resembling an vertical oval.

BALANCE POINT

One of the key aspects of any underwire is the balance point, which refers to the location along the underwire where the weight of the breast is evenly distributed, allowing for optimal support without causing discomfort.

The balance point is affected by the style of the bra. For example, a full coverage bra features a different underwire design compared to a demi or plunge bra. Each style has its own unique balance point that caters to specific support needs and aesthetic preferences.

When evaluating the balance point, it is important to consider the size and shape of the breast. Different breast sizes and shapes may require different choice of the underwire design to ensure that the balance point aligns correctly with the breast tissue. For instance, fuller busts require a wider underwire that extends further around the side of the breast, while smaller busts can benefit from a narrower and also shallower design.

HOW TO FIND THE PERFECT FIT?

To find the perfect fit, focus on the underwire specifications rather than your traditional ready-made bra size. It's all about what works best for you, regardless of 'standard' sizing that doesn't really apply to underwires, as specifications vary by manufacturer and brands make decisions based on their own considerations.

When selecting underwires for your sewing project, it is advisable to follow these steps:

Choose your underwire style based on the bra model you intend to create. Select according to your desired level of cleavage.
Ensure your breast shape and size align with the underwire you choose.
Ensure that the underwire fits comfortably without digging into the skin. The underwire should ideally follow the natural curve of the breast, extending from the center gore to the side.

DISCOVERED A WELL-FITTING UNDERWIRE, YET IT DOESN'T ALIGN WITH OUR PATTERN?

It's easy to fix. Learn how to adjust any underwired bra pattern to accommodate underwires you have here.

UNDERWIRE STYLES

There are quite a few styles of underwire available. Some of the most common styles that we also use to create our patterns are:

VERTICAL U STYLE

Also known as: vertical underwire.
Designed for: narrow oval shaped breasts, will work for round shaped breasts if you prefer full coverage, but not suitable for wide oval shaped breasts because there will be excess gaping.
Features: directed vertically along the sides of the cups and, due to this positioning, the design is beneficial for women who have a smaller distance between their breasts.
Bra models: good for balconette and strapless models (narrow oval shaped breasts), full coverage models (round shaped breasts).

REGULAR J STYLE

Also known as: regular, standard, universal, classic, round, day bra underwire.
Designed for: narrow oval shaped breasts, suitable for round shaped breasts and may work for wide oval shaped breasts if you like full coverage.
Features: shorter compared to vertical underwire, extended form of standard regular underwire.
Bra models: balconette and strapless models (round and narrow oval shaped breasts), full coverage models (wide oval shaped breasts).

REGULAR STYLE

Also known as: standard, universal, classic, day bra underwire.
Designed for: round shaped breasts, but suitable for other shapes as well.
Features: widely used semi revealing design which offers a balance of support and comfort for various breast shapes and sizes.
Bra models: balconette and strapless models (round and wide oval shaped breasts), demi cup models (narrow oval shaped breasts).

DEMI STYLE

Also known as: demi cup underwire.
Designed for: round shaped breasts and works for wide oval shaped breasts, but will not be suitable for narrow oval shaped breasts, nor big sizes.
Features: characterized by shorter cup height, which provides a natural lift while exposing a portion of the upper breast.
Bra models: demi cup models (round and wide oval shaped breasts).

SHALLOW DEMI STYLE

Also known as: france underwire.
Designed for: wide oval shaped breasts, works for round shaped breasts if you prefer even more revealing demi cup designs. Will not be suitable for narrow oval shaped breasts, nor big sizes.
Features: similar to demi style, but constructed to primarily accommodate breasts with a wider base and shallower profile, ensuring a comfortable fit.
Bra models: demi cup models (round and wide oval shaped breasts).

PLUNGE STYLE

Also known as: rocker underwire.
Designed for: round, narrow oval shaped breasts and works quite well for most wide oval shaped breasts.
Features: characterized by deep V-neckline, accommodates a wide range of breast shapes and sizes, providing the maximum cleavage and necessary support.
Bra models: suitable for plunge models enhancing the cleavage (mostly all breast shapes).