Splay & Play
Finding suitable underwires for specific patterns is not an easy task, due to the diverse body shapes of us ladies and the lack of standardization in underwire options. So we have to play a bit with the underwires and patterns that are available to us.
EXAMPLE:
The pattern is designed for a shallow demi style underwire, but only a demi style underwire is available.
Position the underwire on the pattern, grip the center edge while spreading (splaying) the outer edge. Draw a new underwire line. Add a 5-6 mm spacing on both sides of the pattern. Adjust other pattern details and include seam allowances.
Note! The amount of spreading depends on both the size of the bust and the characteristics of the underwire itself. It can range from 1 to 5 cm. Estimate approximately how much the underwire is likely to deform.
Seam Allowances
When sewing undergarments such as bra or panty, seam allowances are determined by the width of the lingerie finishing elastics. So the pattern with seam allowances might still require alterations.
Therefore, always measure the width of the elastic bands.
Use the given formula to correctly calculate your under band seam allowance.
Straps, Hook & Eye Closure
Adjust the pattern in the buckle area by half the length of the closed hook & eye closure.
Modify the pattern to accommodate the width of the hook & eye closure while maintaining seam allowances.
Evaluate the width of your straps and make adjustments in the back band and cup details.
