The Dianella pattern may require a little tweaking to align with underwires and/or notions that you have. Find out how to do that here.
Make adjustments and only then cut the main and lining (stabilizing) fabric using the pattern.
Cups
Sew the lower cup details using regular stitching.
Sew the lower and upper cup details together.
Enclose all seam allowances.
Use the temporary stitches if it helps you.
Secure using decorative stitching approximately 1 mm off the seams.
Remove the temporary stitches.
Neckline
Measure the neckline length and trim the elastic, decreasing by 5%.
Use the temporary stitching if needed.
Sew the elastic band evenly using classic zig zag stitch.
Remove the temporary stitches.
Stitch the lower cup details together using hand-sewing or a sewing machine about 2-3 mm off the edge.
Band
Join the main fabric front details by sewing. Repeat the process for the lining (stabilizing) fabric details.
Sew the two front band details together and flip, ensuring the wrong sides of fabrics and seam allowances are enclosed.
Stabilize the bridge seam using a decorative stitch.
Stitch the two front band details together using hand-sewing or a sewing machine about 2-3 mm off the edges.
Sew the front and back band details together.
Side Boning
Trim the underwire channeling, ensuring there is a space on both sides matching the pattern seam allowances.
Turn the side seam allowance towards the center and stitch the channeling with a regular stitch.
Insert the side bones of the suitable length.
Under Band & Underarm
Sew the cups and the band together.
Measure the under band line length and trim the elastic, decreasing by 5%.
Stitch the elastic evenly by hand.
Sew the first zigzag stitch at the base of the elastic where the picot edge starts if present.
Remove the temporary stitches.
Follow the same steps for each underarm line.
Precisely trim the fabric prior to folding the elastic over.
Stitch the elastic by hand again.
Complete with the second zigzag stitch at the opposite end of the elastic.
Remove the temporary stitches.
Underwire Channeling
Cut the underwire channeling and stitch it by hand.
Sew using a standard stitch around 1-2 mm from the edge lines.
Remove the temporary stitches.
Insert underwires into the channeling.
Ensure the ends are secured and snip excess channeling.
Hook & Eye Closure
Before attaching straps and the hook & eye closure, sew two more elastics extending from straps with rings to buckle.
Ensure the widths at the ends of the band align with the width of the hook & eye closure.
Attach the hook & eye closure with either zigzag or regular stitching.
Straps
Try on the already sewn bra to roughly calculate the necessary strap length.
Guided by the attached photos, add the straps.
Your Dianella full coverage bra is ready!
